History, Culture, and Other Things to Which I am Unaccustomed (Part 1)

I’ll admit I’ve made a few remarks in here that may be seen as taking jabs at America and Americans. This is, however, my right as an American. Honestly, though, having spent over three weeks now talking to people from all over the world and getting their view on things, I’d like to say something about America, how I think people see us, and what I wish they’d see.

First, I realize America has made several mistakes. Yes, the whole world told us not to go into Iraq and we did it anyway, then it turned into what John Stewart called an “exploding clusterfuck.” And this probably could have been avoided if the media (or just people in general) had been a bit more critical and actually fulfilled their role in the buildup to the war. I’m not denying a lot of mistakes were made. But one thing that I wish we got more credit for is this: from the beginning, we were really trying to do the right thing and honestly thought we’d make Iraq (and the whole Middle East) a better place.And as much as America blunders around the world and causes fiasco after fiasco, I don’t think it is ever fair to say that we don’t care about the rest of the world. We don’t understand that other cultures view things differently than we do; that democracy may not work everywhere simply because not every culture thinks democracy is important, or that pushing trade might cause a backlash because other cultures see amassing wealth and material possessions as sinful. So go ahead and say we don’t understand the world – let’s face it, we don’t – but please never say Americans are selfish or uncaring, because nothing could be further from the truth. For all our faults, I’m proud to come from a country whose citizens always try to do right by the world.

And now, without transition, I’ll begin writing about the subject I named in the title.

Kronborg Castle – better known in English as Elsinore – is about 45 minutes away from Copenhagen by train, so when there was some nice weather I jumped on a train and began praying someone would give me an opportunity to shout “get thee to a nunnery!” or “stand and unfold yourself!” before the day was over. Sadly, I never got to work either of those into casual conversation (“I’m trying to get to the train station, but I’m doubled over and lying on the sidewalk. What should I do?” “Well, I’d recommend you stand and unfold yourself, then walk east four blocks…”). I still think castles are really cool. I wish we had them in the Seattle area. The sheer amount of history all around in Europe is mind-boggling to someone from the Northwest. Did anybody actually enjoy Washington State History when we had to take that class in high school? We just don’t have a lot of history and an embarrassing amount of what’s there involves stealing things from the natives.

Kronborg Castle also houses the Maritime Museum – entrance costs extra and is required in order to climb the telegraph tower. It’s a good thing they bundle those together, because otherwise I have the feeling nobody would ever go to the Maritime Museum. The views from the top are worth it, though. Just like from the towers in Copenhagen, you can see Sweden from Kronborg. I’m no expert on cannons, but I’ll bet, if they really wanted to, they could easily shoot Helsingborg.

Below Kronborg are the “Casemates.” “Casemates” is, allegedly, the English translation of Kasematterne, though I don’t think I’ve ever heard either word before. Of course, I suppose that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist. I’ll call them “underground rooms” instead. According to legend, Holger Danske – a warrior and king (back in the days when leaders and their families participated in the wars they started) who defended Denmark against Charlemagne – never died and is sleeping in the Casemates until Denmark is again threatened, at which point he will awaken and lead the Danish once again. Odd that he'd be sleeping here, considering Kronborg Castle wasn’t built until 600 years after Charlemagne’s campaign against the Danish. Also, if Holger Danske didn’t wake up when the Germans took over Denmark during World War II, I wonder just how serious a threat it will take for him to wake up.

While I’m on the subject of royalty (I’m not doing well with logical transitions during this post, am I?), I’ve actually had my opinion changed on the value of royal families. I was talking to a local about politics – Danish love talking politics, especially, it seems, with Americans – and I said something to the effect of: while I understand the desire to preserve national history and identity and I understand a Royal Family to be part of that identity, I don’t like the idea of a government supporting an opulent lifestyle for one fortunate family. His response, however, turned me around. Isn’t it the job of elected officials to govern? And how much time does the US President (not just this one, but all of them) waste on ceremonial dinners, photo ops, reading to children…? Having a royal family separates out the governing and the ceremony into two separate roles, allowing the elected officials focus on what their job is supposed to be, not to mention providing more competent and culturally sensitive people to deal with foreign dignitaries (i.e. understanding that Germans have very well-defined personal space and don't like spontaneous backrubs). Wow, did I ever get my egalitarian ass kicked in that debate.